Parts:
- Owens Corning SelectSound Black Acoustic Board
- Bondo All Purpose Fiberglass Resin
- Latex gloves
- Yard working gloves
- Breath mask
- Wax paper
- Paint brushes
- Plastic mixing cups
- Wooden mixing sticks
- Sandpaper
- 24' of 48" wide Black burlap
- 3M Spray adhesive (for cloth and fiberglass -- don't remember part #)
You can get the SelectSound Black Acoustic Board in 4' x 8' sheets or precut into 2' x 4' sections. They come in either 1" or 2" thickness. One side of the board is covered by black cloth that is supposed to be acoustically transparent. I went for the 2", 4' x 8' sheets since that is what my local distributor had on hand.
I did this work inside my garage while it was open as recommended by Bondo.
Here is what I did to make the four 2' x 4' acoustic panels:
- I cut the 4' x 8' sheet of SelectSound board into four 2' x 4' sections. Since the fiberglass along the edges is exposed, I used my yard working gloves to give my hands a bit of protection.
- I layed out wax paper on the floor of my garage so that they covered the working area. FYI, the fiberglass resin does not stick to wax paper but it does stick to concrete. Also, I would recommend that you tape the wax paper down.
- I placed each of the SelectSound sections on top of the wax paper (again using my yard working gloves).
- I put on the latex gloves and breath mask (since the fumes from the fiberglass resin are quite noxious).
- I poured 8 oz of resin into the plastic mixing cup, added the hardening agent and mixed it with the wooden mixing stick. I found that 8 oz was about all that I could reasonably apply before the mixture started to harden.
- At this point the resin will harden within 15 minutes so I needed to work quickly. I used a paint brush to apply two coats of the resin mixture to the outer edges of the SelectSound board sections.
- I repeated the mixing of the resin and hardner and applying to the edges of the sound board until all four panels were coated twice.
- I let the resin harden overnight and then sanded the resin hardened edges with the sandpaper that I had on hand. I did not want to completely smooth all of the edges; rather, I just needed to remove some of the sharper edges and points. Having it a bit rough helps to hold the burlap in place.
- I then cut the burlap into 6' sections and then cut out the corners so that when I wrapped the acoustic panel in the burlap, it just fit. Unfortunately, I don't have a good picture of what I did here. Here's the basic pattern (the solid line is the pattern and the dotted line is where I put the acoustic panel to be wrapped):

- I then spread the pre-cut burlap out on top of some newspaper that I layed out to catch any excess adhesive spray.
- I put a acoustic panel in the middle of the burlap (see the dotted outline in the picture above) with the cloth covered side of the acoustic panel up. I did this so that the fiberglass side is exposed to the sound since I was not convinced that the cloth is completely acoustically transparent.
- I sprayed both the cloth and a small part of the back of the acoustic panel with the adhesive spray and then wrapped the panel. I did this one side at a time so that I could pull the burlap as tight as possible.
- I repeated for each of the four acoustic panels and again let them dry overnight.
Here are some pictures of the completed panels (front and back):


I didn't do a very good job with the wrapping (you should see the way I wrap my Christmas presents!), but they look okay from the front. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me on the forum.
After completing this project, the only comments that I have are working with the burlap and adhesive is rather messy so I should have used gloves. I would also recommend that you use different cloth since the burlap, while acoustically transparent, is quite difficult to work with. Perhaps using the cloth that other acoustic panel manufacturers use (e.g., Guildford of Maine FR701 fabric). It's more expensive, but it looks much better and I would guess that it is easier to work with.